This is for the people who are ready to quit or are currently quitting dipping. The simplest and cheapest imitation snuff that I have found is this homemade recipe. I’ll give you that it’s not the same as Copenhagen or any other snuff, but once you get used to it (just like if you changed brands), it will work as a good substitute and help you get over your cravings.
The recipe is simple – decaf tea and salt. Soak your teabags for about 3-5 minutes and then dump them into a bowl (squeeze them out before dumping to minimize the water level), add salt – about 1-2 teaspoons per teabag – and mix well. Put this into an empty snuff can (don’t wash it if you want to impart some of the flavor). It will feel rough for the first couple days, but once the water starts to soften the tea leaves it will feel like real snuff. The taste is the only obstacle – nothing can really compare to the straight stuff flavor – but if you go into this expecting the flavor change, it can work for you.
Make sure you use decaf tea – caffeinated tea will give you a super-duper-make-you-throw-up caffeine overdose. You can also add some flavors – use herbal mint tea, for instance (though I suggest a base of regular decaf tea). Your snuff can will build up some salt around the outside lip, depending on the amount of salt and water you use.
Use this recipe in conjunction with other quitting aids – Nicorette patches/gum, chocolate, or some other stop-smoking aid. I recommend that you quit cold turkey – throw out or finish up your existing stock on a planned date and wake up the next morning nicotine free. A bet with high stakes (mine is 12 raw oysters) helps. Involve as many people as you can – they will keep you honest and support you, helping you to be successful.
That’s all I’ve got, hope this helps!

Maybe I should post something? I guess I’ll have to start thinking about whether to bring this blog back from the dead…

Follow along as Jim, Ben, and friends take on their GM in a Star Wars campaign in a world where Star Wars never existed. If you’ve ever been a GM you’ll be laughing during almost every strip. The strip follows the movie visually, but diverges heavily on the plot and characters. This is definitely entering my weekly rotation of web comics!

[http://www.darthsanddroids.net/]

Dear Apple,
Would you please quit making your software ask me if I want to install more of your software? All I wanted was to watch a Quicktime movie and now you ask me every couple of weeks if I want to install iTunes, if I want to install Bonjour, if I want to install Safari. You don’t let me say “no,” instead you just keep asking me. Well, here’s my answer: NO! I don’t want to install all that. I’m happy with Firefox and WinAmp. I enjoy having a physical CD that I can rip the songs off of whenever I end up losing them due to my children screwing up my computer. I have no clue what Bonjour does, but I probably already have something that do

Rope barriers are really useful items, especially at train shows where everbody wants to touch your $100 engines and your $300 scenes and you’re not allowed to use a taser or flamethrower on them… Sorry, got carried away there. Anyway, here’s how I built a simple rope barrier.

Design view of the rope barrier

We designed ours to have 7 feet between stands, you can adjust that as needed. Below is the supply list *per stand*.

Supplies (per stand):

• 1 x 1-gallon metal coffee can or paint can (empty)
• 1 x 3′ stick of 1/2″ PVC pipe
• 1 x 1/2″ PVC Tee
• 1 x 7″ stick of 1″ PVC pipe
• 1 x can of PVC glue
• enough concrete mix to fill a 1 gallon can
• enough cheap cotton clothesline to cover the area you want
• Duct tape or a plastic bag and some other type of tape
• 1 x torpedo level

For our barrier, we used 6 paint cans and 1-2.5 gallon gas can (for the corner). I used about 60 lbs of concrete for this. I recommend using paint cans as they have these handy handles attached to them. Remember that 1 gallon of concrete is pretty dang heavy!

1. Start out by cutting your 1/2″ PVC into 3′ sections with a hacksaw. Clean the burrs from the end of the pipe.
2. Apply glue to the end of the pipe and into the bottom opening of the tee, then push the pipe into the tee, giving it a half twist at the end to help distribute the glue evenly. Follow the directions on the glue for drying time. (Note that if the glue recommends using a primer that this is not needed since the pipe will not be used for plumbing)
3. Cut your 1″ PVC into 7″ sections. You want the pipe to come to the top of the can.
4. If you are using duct tape, cover one end of the 1″ PVC so that it is water-tight.
5. If you don’t have duct tape, cut a plastic bag into 2″ squares, wrap that around one end of the 1″ PVC and tape it into place. Again, make it water-tight.
6. We mixed our concrete in the cans, but if you would rather mix a batch in a wheelbarrow, then go for it. Add a little water to the bottom of the can, then add some concrete until you get a thick paste (the quality of your concrete is not too important here). Stir well, adding either water or concrete until there is no more dry cement visible and the concrete has the consistency of thick mud. Repeat until the can is filled to about 1″ from the top.
7. Push the closed end of the 1″ PVC into the concrete, visually centering it in the can. Use the torpedo level to get the can reasonably level. Insert a piece of 1/2″ PVC into the open end of the 1″ PVC and use the torpedo level to get the 1″ PVC reasonably close to straight vertically (remember to level the can before this). You don’t have to be very accurate here, you’re just trying to avoid a post sticking out at 45*…
8. Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours. After 24 hours you can spray primer on the cans and concrete if you wish. If you are paining the PVC you will definitely want to use primer. That’s it, you’re done!

Here’s some photos of the final product:

The over-engineered corner post.

Matthew testing the ropes

This weekend is the Great Train Expo in Ft Worth at the Ft Worth Convention Center. General admission is $7 for adults, brats are free. Kenneth, Billy, Matthew, and I will be there playing trains with Tex-N-Rail. I just finished a rope barrier for the event, I’ll post a how-to on that next week. You can find us by looking for the orange & black striped rope barrier. Be sure to stop and say “hi” to The GreenEgg while you’re there!

The British Cartoon Archive, courtesy of the University of Kent, has a collection of old Andy Capp cartoons going back to August, 1957 and running through December, 1962. It’s interesting to watch the evolution of Andy and Flo’s appearance over those 5 years and then to look at them in the current version.

Here’s Flo & Andy in 1957 (single panel strip):

And here they are in 1962 (4 panel strip):

And lastly, here they are in 2009 (3 panel strip):

You can find more information about Andy over at his Wikipedia page.

Put together a small history of the Armadillo Shortline. Because of the way I designed it, I figured it would be best as a PDF (get Adobe Reader here or Foxit Reader here). I’ll eventually have an HTML version available.

History of the Armadillo Shortline Railroad

Came across this while Stumbling…

“Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for much, but bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.”